Size down for slim cuts such as biker and cafe racer jackets. Size up for roomier cuts such as bomber, B3 shearling and trench coats. The decision depends on the style of the jacket rather than on your body, because each cut is designed to sit a different distance from you.
Landing between two sizes is common, and picking wrong is the main reason leather jackets get returned. Below is the rule for every style we make, and the reasoning behind it.
The Rule by Style
Size down
Biker jacket. Designed to sit tight to the body with a cropped hem and short sleeves. The close fit is the style. A biker jacket with room in it looks like a borrowed jacket. See Biker Jackets.
Cafe racer. Slim and minimal, with a small collar and clean lines. Any excess fabric shows immediately because there is no detailing to hide it. See Cafe Racer Jackets.
Leather blazer. Follows tailoring rules rather than outerwear rules, so it should sit close through the chest and waist.
Leather shirt. Worn as a top rather than over layers. Size down unless you plan to wear it open as a jacket.
Size up
Bomber jacket. The ribbed waist and cuffs do the shaping, so the body is meant to be roomy. A tight bomber loses the shape entirely. See Bomber Leather Jackets.
B3 shearling. The wool lining takes up real space inside the jacket, more than most people expect. Size up. See Shearling Leather Jackets.
Leather trench coat. Built to go over a jumper or a blazer. It is meant to be generous. See Leather Trench Coats.
Leather vest. Goes over a jacket or hoodie rather than under one, so it needs the extra room and deeper armholes.
Take your true size
Fashion and field jackets. Cut with normal ease already built in. Take the size your chest measurement points to.
Western jackets. Straight cut and designed over a shirt. True to size in almost all cases.
Why the Shoulder Overrules Everything
If your chest points to one size and your shoulders point to another, take the shoulder size regardless of style. A tailor can bring in the chest, waist and sleeve length of a leather jacket. Nobody can rework the shoulders without taking the jacket apart and rebuilding it.
So the order of priority is: shoulders first, then chest, then everything else.
What Leather Actually Does Over Time
A lot of people size up because they have heard leather stretches. It does not, not really. It relaxes.
Over the first month or two of regular wear, body heat softens the hide and it starts to follow your shape at the elbows, shoulders and across the back. You get roughly half a size of give. It never comes back, and it never goes further than that.
The practical effect: a jacket that feels firm on day one becomes comfortable. A jacket that feels comfortable on day one becomes loose. Lambskin relaxes fastest, within a few weeks. Cowhide takes two to three months. Goatskin sits in between.
The Layering Question
The most common reason people size up is to fit a jumper underneath. Be honest about whether you will actually do that.
Most leather jackets get worn over a t-shirt or a thin shirt for the majority of their life. If you size up for a thick jumper you will wear four times a year, the jacket looks oversized the other three hundred days.
A better approach: size for a t-shirt, and if you need real winter warmth, choose a warmer jacket rather than a bigger one. That is what shearling exists for.
When Neither Size Works
Sometimes your measurements genuinely do not match any standard size, particularly if you have broad shoulders with a narrow waist, or a long torso, or long arms.
Every jacket at Leather Outlet has a custom option at no extra cost. Because everything is made to order rather than pulled off a shelf, building to your measurements is part of the normal process. Send us chest, shoulder, sleeve, waist and body length and we will make it to those numbers.
If you have not taken those yet, our guide on how to measure yourself at home walks through it in five minutes.
A Quick Test Before You Order
Find a jacket you already own that fits the way you want the new one to fit. Lay it flat, measure armpit seam to armpit seam and double it, then measure shoulder seam to shoulder seam across the back.
Those two numbers tell you more than your body measurements do, because they include the ease you personally like. Send them to us and say whether you want the same, slightly closer or slightly roomier.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I size up or down in a leather jacket?
Size down for biker, cafe racer, blazer and shirt styles. Size up for bomber, B3 shearling, trench coat and vest styles. Fashion and western jackets are true to size.
Do leather jackets stretch?
They relax rather than stretch. Expect roughly half a size of give over the first one to two months of regular wear, and no more. It does not reverse.
Should I size up to wear a jumper underneath?
Usually not. Most leather jackets are worn over a t-shirt the majority of the time, so sizing up for occasional layering leaves the jacket looking oversized most of the year.
What if my chest and shoulders are different sizes?
Take the shoulder size. Chest, waist and sleeve length can all be altered by a tailor. Shoulders cannot be reworked on a finished leather jacket.
How much does lambskin relax compared to cowhide?
Lambskin softens within a few weeks. Cowhide takes two to three months of regular wear. Both give about half a size in total.
Can I order a leather jacket in a custom size?
Yes. Every product has a custom option at no extra cost. Send your chest, shoulder, sleeve, waist and body length measurements and we will build to them.
Is it better to buy a leather jacket slightly tight?
Slightly firm, yes. Genuinely tight, no. You should be able to zip it over a t-shirt and move your arms freely. If the front pulls horizontally across the chest, it is too small.
Making the Call
Match the rule to the style, prioritise the shoulders, and be realistic about layering. If you are still unsure, take the custom option and send your numbers. Check the Size Guide, then browse Men Leather Jackets or Women Leather Jackets. Free worldwide shipping on every order.
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