Size a leather vest for the thickest thing you will wear under it, not for a t-shirt. If you plan to wear it over a leather jacket, that usually means going one to two sizes up from your normal jacket size. Sized for a t-shirt, it will simply not close over a jacket.
This is the single most common sizing mistake with vests, and unlike a jacket it cannot be fixed by a tailor adding room. Here is how to get it right.
Decide What Goes Underneath First
Before looking at any size chart, answer one question: what will this vest normally sit on top of?
- Over a t-shirt only. Take your normal size. This is a fashion vest rather than a riding one.
- Over a hoodie or flannel shirt. Go one size up.
- Over a leather or textile riding jacket. Go one to two sizes up, depending on how heavy that jacket is.
- Both, at different times. Size for the jacket and use side lacing to take it in when you are not wearing one.
If you already own the jacket you will wear it over, the most accurate approach is to measure around your chest while wearing that jacket, zipped. That number is what the vest needs to accommodate.
Armhole Depth Matters More Than Chest Size
This is the check almost nobody makes, and it is the one that causes the most complaints.
A vest with shallow armholes will bind under the arms as soon as you reach forward, whether that is for handlebars or just across a table. Because a vest has no sleeves to absorb the movement, all of it happens at the armhole.
When trying one on, put it over whatever you will actually wear under it, then reach both arms straight forward. The armhole should not press into your armpit and the whole vest should not lift at the hem.
Deep armholes are one of the clearest differences between a well made vest and a cheap one.
Length
A biker vest should cover your belt at the back. Shorter than that and it lifts away from your lower back when you lean forward, which looks wrong and leaves a gap.
A fashion vest can sit slightly shorter, ending at the waist. Decide which you are buying before you order, because the two lengths look quite different.
Adjustment Options
Side lacing. The most useful feature on a vest that has to work over different layers. Laces at both sides let you open the vest up over a jacket and pull it in over a t-shirt. If you will wear the vest across seasons, look for this.
Side buckles or straps. Similar function with less range of adjustment, but faster to change.
Fixed sides. Cleanest look and the best surface for patches, but no adjustment. Only choose this if the vest will always be worn over the same thing.
The Back Panel
If you plan to put a large patch on the back, the back panel should be cut from a single piece of leather with no centre seam. A seam running down the middle means a large patch either sits over the seam and puckers, or has to be positioned off centre.
Check the product photos for this before ordering. It is not something you can change afterwards.
Hide Weight
Cowhide of around 1.2 mm or heavier for a riding or patch vest. A thin hide will not hold patches flat, and the vest will roll and curl at the front edges rather than hanging straight.
Lighter lambskin works for a fashion vest worn over a shirt, where hang and softness matter more than structure. Our comparison of lambskin, cowhide and goatskin covers the trade offs.
Taking Your Measurements
Wear the layer you intend to wear under the vest, then take:
- Chest. Around the fullest part, over that layer, level all the way round.
- Waist. At your natural waist, over the same layer.
- Back length. From the base of your neck down to where you want the vest to end.
- Armhole. If you can, measure the armhole on a vest or waistcoat that already fits you well over a jacket.
Check them against the Size Guide. Every vest is made to order in XS through 5XL with a custom option at no extra cost, so if you are sizing for a specific jacket, tell us and we will build to it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size leather vest do I need to wear over a jacket?
Usually one to two sizes up from your jacket size, depending on how heavy the jacket is. The most accurate method is to measure your chest while wearing that jacket, zipped.
Should a leather vest be tight or loose?
Loose enough to close comfortably over whatever you wear underneath. A vest is a layering piece, so it is sized quite differently from a jacket.
How deep should the armholes be on a leather vest?
Deep enough that you can reach both arms straight forward without the armhole pressing into your armpit or the hem lifting. Shallow armholes are the most common fault on a cheap vest.
How long should a biker vest be?
It should cover your belt at the back. Shorter than that and it lifts away from your lower back when you lean forward.
What is side lacing for on a leather vest?
Adjustment. It lets you open the vest out over a jacket and pull it in over a t-shirt, which is useful if you wear it across seasons.
Does the back panel need to be one piece?
If you plan to add a large back patch, yes. A centre seam means the patch either puckers over the seam or has to sit off centre.
How thick should a patch vest be?
Cowhide around 1.2 mm or heavier. Thinner hides will not hold patches flat and the front edges tend to curl instead of hanging straight.
Getting It Right
Decide what goes underneath, measure over that layer, and check the armhole depth before anything else. Browse Mens Leather Vests, Motorcycle Vests or Womens Leather Vests at Leather Outlet, and check the Size Guide. Made to order in real leather, XS to 5XL, free worldwide shipping.
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