A bomber jacket has a ribbed collar, cuffs and hem with a roomy body. A biker jacket has an asymmetric zip, wide lapels and a close cropped fit. A cafe racer has a small band collar, a centre zip and clean lines with almost no detailing. Those three differences drive everything else about how each one looks and wears.
These are the three styles most people end up choosing between for a first leather jacket. Here is how they compare side by side.
The Bomber Jacket
Look for: ribbed knit collar, cuffs and hem. Straight centre zip. Roomy through the chest. Usually two slash pockets.
The bomber comes from military flight jackets, where the ribbed hem stopped cold air getting in at altitude. That rib is still what defines the shape. It pulls the waist in while the body stays generous, which creates the rounded silhouette.
It suits you if you want the most relaxed and least aggressive of the three, you like a jacket that works over a hoodie, or you have a slimmer frame and want a shape that adds a little width.
Fit note: size up if you are between sizes. The rib does the shaping, so a tight bomber loses its whole character. See Bomber Leather Jackets.
The Biker Jacket
Look for: asymmetric front zip set to one side. Wide notched lapels that fold back. Belted waist. Zipped pockets. Often a snap collar.
The biker is the most recognisable leather jacket ever made and the most detailed of the three. Every element originally had a function: the offset zip so it did not press into your chest when leaning forward, the wide lapels to fold across the throat, the belt to keep wind out at the waist.
It suits you if you want a jacket with real presence, you like hardware and detail, or you ride. It is the least neutral of the three, which is either the appeal or the problem depending on your taste.
Fit note: size down if between sizes. It is meant to sit close to the body. See Biker Jackets.
The Cafe Racer
Look for: small standing band collar, often with a single snap. Straight centre zip. Minimal or no external pockets. Very clean lines.
The cafe racer came from 1960s British motorcycle culture, where riders wanted something less bulky than a full biker jacket. Stripping away the lapels and hardware left a jacket that is quiet, slim and easy to wear with almost anything.
It suits you if you want leather without the statement, you wear a lot of simple clothing, or you want something that works with tailoring as easily as with jeans. It is the most versatile of the three by a clear margin.
Fit note: size down if between sizes. There is no detailing to hide excess material. See Cafe Racer Jackets.
Side by Side
- Most versatile: cafe racer, then bomber, then biker.
- Most relaxed: bomber.
- Strongest presence: biker.
- Best over layers: bomber.
- Best with tailoring: cafe racer.
- Best for riding: biker, in heavyweight cowhide.
- Easiest first leather jacket: cafe racer in black or brown.
Which Leather for Each
Hide choice changes the character as much as the cut does.
Bomber. Lambskin for a soft everyday jacket, sheepskin or shearling if you want genuine winter warmth. Goatskin for the traditional flight jacket feel.
Biker. Cowhide for weight, structure and durability, particularly if you ride. Lambskin if you want the look without the heft.
Cafe racer. Lambskin or goatskin. The clean lines suit a lighter hide that drapes rather than holding a stiff shape.
Our comparison of lambskin, cowhide and goatskin covers this in more detail.
What About the Others?
Three more styles come up often enough to mention.
B3 shearling. The warmest jacket we make, with the wool left on the inside of the hide. A winter jacket rather than a year round one. See Shearling Leather Jackets.
Trench coat. Long, belted and formal. A different category rather than a variation. See Leather Trench Coats.
Western jacket. Straight cut with a wide collar and often a yoke or fringe. Reads more casual and more American than any of the three above.
How to Choose
Ask yourself one question: what will you wear it over, most days?
If the answer is a t-shirt or a shirt, take a cafe racer or a biker. If the answer is a hoodie or a jumper, take a bomber. If the answer is a suit jacket, take a trench coat or a leather blazer.
Then choose the hide based on whether you want it soft now or durable forever, and check your measurements against the Size Guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a bomber and a biker jacket?
A bomber has a ribbed collar, cuffs and hem with a roomy body and a straight centre zip. A biker has an asymmetric zip, wide folding lapels and a close cropped fit with more hardware.
What is a cafe racer jacket?
A slim leather jacket with a small standing band collar, a straight centre zip and minimal detailing. It came from 1960s British motorcycle culture as a lighter alternative to a full biker jacket.
Which leather jacket style is most versatile?
The cafe racer. Its clean lines work with jeans, tailoring and almost everything in between, and it draws less attention than a biker jacket.
Which leather jacket should I buy first?
A cafe racer in black or brown is the easiest starting point. If you want something more relaxed, a bomber. Choose a biker jacket when you specifically want the detail and presence.
Do bomber and biker jackets fit differently?
Yes. Bombers are cut roomy because the ribbed hem does the shaping, so size up if between sizes. Bikers are cut close to the body, so size down.
Which style is best for riding?
A biker jacket in heavyweight cowhide. The cut is designed for a forward riding position and cowhide resists abrasion better than lighter hides.
Can you wear a biker jacket with a suit?
It can be done but it fights the tailoring. A cafe racer or a leather blazer sits far more comfortably with a suit.
Choosing Yours
Pick the cut based on what you will wear underneath, pick the hide based on how you want it to age, and check the Size Guide before ordering. Browse Men Leather Jackets and Women Leather Jackets at Leather Outlet. Everything made to order in real leather, XS to 5XL, with free worldwide shipping.
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